Quintessential Chicago

by Howe Sim, published in Helium

 

A last minute substitution for our tour of Switzerland, Chicago turned out to be a delightful albeit less exotic alternative. The memories of my first visit to the Windy City several years ago were not too pleasant, as it was during the middle of a bonechilling spell in the early spring.  This time, my wife and I were blessed with sun-soaked days and temperatures in the mid- to high- twenties Celsius. It was a short trip, lasting just three days. The flight from Toronto took just over an hour, which was why we flew instead of driving.  

 

After retrieving our luggage, we took a 45-minute taxi ride to the charming European-style four-star Talbott Hotel, located just off the northern end of Michigan Avenue, in Chicago’s posh Gold Coast district.  In addition to all the usual amenities (including complimentary Wi-Fi access from all rooms and 24-hour room service), we were most impressed with the staff, who were as polite and gracious as we’ve ever encountered. 

 

From my research, Chicago seemed to offer a little something for everyone, whether you were interested in shopping, architecture, dining, sports, or the arts. Over the next 72 hours, we embarked on a whirlwind tour of Chicago, to get a feel for what Chicagoans love most about their city. What follows is a list of some quintessential Chicago experiences, which will draw you back to this fascinating city time and again.

 

1. Enjoying an afternoon at Millenium Park, the city’s newest urban showpiece. Similar to New York City’s Central Park, this 25-acre oasis, located on South Michigan Avenue, debuted in summer 2004.  Funded by philanthropists such as Oprah Winfrey, it features a combination of beautiful landscaping, an ice rink, and a theatre. Its centerpiece is the impressive Frank Gehry-designed Jay Pritzker Music Pavilion, with its massive stainless steel ribbons, where the Grank Park Symphony Orchestra stages free outdoor classic music concerts in the summer.

 

The stunning Jay Pritzker Music Pavilion is the centerpiece of Millenium Park

 

Two public artworks popular among visitors are British sculptor Anish Kapoor’s huge polished steel reflective Cloud Gate (known as The Bean) and Spanish sculptor Jaume Plensa’s Crown Foundation, with its two glass towers projecting faces of Chicagoans and a shallow reflecting pool between them. It is open daily 6AM-11PM and admission is free.  Visit milleniumpark.org for more information.

 

Anish Kapoor’s polished steel Cloud Gate is a favorite among visitors

2. Window shopping along the Magnificent Mile.  Considered one of the world’s premiere shopping districts, this stretch of Michigan Avenue, which runs north of the Chicago River up to the stately Drake Hotel, has been compared to Paris’s Champs Élysées and New York’s Fifth Avenue. In addition to high-end boutiques and retailers, it is also home to many more moderately-priced shops. The already beautiful Mile was adorned by rows of colorful tulips while we were there, in celebration of its annual Tulip Days festival. On the northern tip of the Magnificent Mile lies Oak Street, which is also known for its collection of pricey designer-label boutiques, including Prada, Hermès, and Barneys New York.

 

North Michigan Avenue is lined by many high- and moderate-priced stores

 

3. Riding the “El” (elevated) train around the Loop.  Hop the southbound Brown Line at the Washington/Wells stop and ride it around the Loop (approximately 30 minutes). At only US$2, you’ll get a unique perspective on the downtown core, as well as interesting views into office buildings. Avoid boarding before 9AM and between 3-6PM. While Chicago’s El was not the nation’s first elevated train system, it is the largest one with 465 kilometres of track.

 

A ride on the El train provides an interesting view of the downtown Loop

 

4. Marveling at masterpieces in the Art Institute.  Famous for its large collection of Impressionist, Post-Impressionist, and American paintings, this museum is easily identified by the bronze lions that flank its South Michigan Avenue entrance. Children and adults alike will also be impressed by the Thorne Miniature Rooms in the museum’s lower level, featuring 68 tiny reproductions of furnished rooms from European and American history, running from the 1300s to the 1930s. Admission is free on Thursdays, when it also happens to be open till 8PM (all other days open from 1030AM to 5PM).

 

The Chicago Art Institute houses the largest collection of Impressionist art in North America

 

5. Cruising down the Chicago River. One of the best ways to appreciate Chicago’s architectural history and learn about the dramatic buildings that form its skyline is by taking an architecture boat cruise. These run daily between May and September, and range from 30 to 90 minutes in length. Ours was operated by Shoreline Sightseeing, but Wendella Sightseeing Boats is another popular choice. Architecture buffs tend to favor the Architecture River Cruise offered by the Chicago Architecture Foundation.

 

A guided cruise down the Chicago River offers a unique view of the city’s skyline

 

6. Chowing down on deep-dish Chicago-style pizza and a classic Chicago hot dog. Invented in 1943 by a former University of Texas football star, the true Chicago-style deep-dish pizza features a buttery crust, cheese, and chunky tomato sauce, and is usually eaten with knife and fork. Some of the best gourmet deep-dish pizza restaurants in town are Pizzeria Uno, Gino’s East, and our personal favorite, Lou Malnati’s Pizzeria.

 

For those who prefer hot dogs, Chicago is home to many outstanding hot dog eateries, such as Fluky’s, Portillo’s, and Gold Coast Dogs. These local chains offer the true Chicago hot dog, which features a steamed or boiled all-beef hot dog topped with chopped onions, sweet pickle relish, yellow mustard, dill pickle spear, fresh tomato wedges, a dash of celery salt, two or three chili peppers, but never any ketchup. 

 

7. Taking the kids to Navy Pier.  Built in World War I as a training center for Navy pilots, this kilometre-long pier features a boat dock, food court, shopping arcade, and various carnival attractions. It’s popular with families, largely because of its 15-story replica of the world’s first ferris wheel, as well as its colorful carousel featuring 36 hand painted animals. It’s open Sunday through Thursday 10AM-10PM and Friday to Saturday 10AM-midnight. For more information, visit www.navypier.com.

 

Navy Pier’s ferris wheel offers great views of the Chicago skyline

 

8. Taking in a game at Wrigley Field.  For the true baseball fan, this historic ballpark (the second oldest in America) with its manually operated scoreboard and ivy-covered outfield walls, is true Americana. Stuff yourself with a hot dog and some Cracker Jack, and join in the chorus of “Take Me Out To The Ballgame” during the seventh inning stretch. Because Wrigley is small, tickets are often sold out by opening day. Your best bet is to try a weekday game or a scalper on game day. Failing that, take one of the tours offered on certain Saturdays in the summertime; stops include the locker rooms, press box, and a walk on the field itself. 

 

9. Checking out the animals at the Lincoln Park Zoo.  The nation’s oldest zoo also happens to be one of only two zoos in the country that still charge no admission fees. In spite of this, its Georgian revival-style brick buildings, verdant lawns and flower gardens are among the most beautiful I’ve seen at any zoo, and are kept in immaculate condition. The most popular exhibits are the Regenstein African Journey, the Great Ape House, and the Sea Lion Pool. Arrive early to avoid the masses of schoolchildren who inevitably invade the place. The Lincoln Park Zoo is open 365 days a year.

 

This baby DeBrazza’s monkey is a resident of the popular Lincoln Park Zoo

 

10. Strolling around one of Chicago’s colorful neighborhoods.  Whether it’s the historic stately mansions of the tree-lined Gold Coast, Old Town with its wood-framed houses and historic taverns, or the artsy and picturesque Wicker Park district, some of your best memories of Chicago may come from simply strolling through its various neighborhoods. If you prefer to navigate these lesser trodden areas with a local guide, consider the free Chicago Greeter program (www.chicagogreeter.com) or the increasingly popular Chicago Neighborhood Tours (www.chicagoneighborhoodtours.com). 

 

This stately home is in the ritzy Gold Coast neighborhood

 

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