Photo Essay Los Cabos: Sun,
Sand and Surf
by Howe Sim
Relieved to be finally
away from Toronto’s bone chilling temperatures, we hauled our luggage off the
carousel at Mexico’s San Jose International Airport and ventured out into the
arrivals lounge. Determined to avoid the relentless throngs of timeshare
salespeople posing as tour guides, we made a beeline for the exit. We promptly
located the Sunquest representative and boarded our air-conditioned bus. Within
minutes, we were whisked off to the all-inclusive five-star-rated Dreams Los
Cabos Resort. We would spend the next several days enjoying the attractions for
which Los Cabos is famous: its wide beaches, its never-ending sunshine, and its
many water-based activities.
Thanks to its long stretches of coastline, Los Cabos is blessed with
many beaches and secluded coves. Unfortunately the waters of the Sea of Cortez
and the Pacific Ocean make for large waves and strong undertows. Hence few
areas here are safe for swimming, one notable exception being Bahia Chileno.
This pretty beach, roughly half way between the towns of San Jose del Cabo and
Cabo San Lucas, is ideal for swimming and snorkeling, thanks to its small
crescent-shaped cove. On the western end of the beach stands the Hotel Cabo San
Lucas, on the eastern end (shown above) boulders and another desolate beach.
Chileno beach is quite clean and rarely crowded. Another family-friendly beach
safe for swimming and snorkeling is Bahia Santa Maria.
The Cabo San Lucas Harbor is the centre point of Cabo’s boating
community. Here you’ll find gorgeous million-dollar privately owned yachts as
well party boats, water taxis, glass-bottom boats, and sport-fishing boats for
hire. The harbor is lined with an eclectic mix of sophisticated restaurants,
trendy bars, stores, and companies hawking fishing trips, cruises and
timeshares. It gets crowded around
here, especially when cruise ships drop anchor. Definitely a good place to sit
down with a cerveza and do some people watching. Beware of the constant throngs
of locals, including many school-aged children, selling jewelry, crafts, and
other knick-knacks.
One of the most recognizable and photographed symbols of Mexico, El Arco
(the Arch) marks the spot where the pounding surf of the Pacific meets with the
relatively calm waters of the Sea of Cortez.
While it is visible from Cabo’s harbour, it is best viewed from the
water. Your options include a 5-minute water taxi ride or a 20-minute
glass-bottom boat ride from the San Lucas Harbour or the nearby Medano beach.
If you opt for the latter, you can get up close and personal with the
dozens of sea lions that bask on a rock formation near El Arco. Be sure to take
lots of photos, since many are likely to be blurry due to the wild bobbing
motion of your watercraft. Don’t
venture too close as they’ve been known to nip at curious onlookers. This area
also happens to be prime snorkeling territory, so there will be plenty of other
watercraft in the vicinity.
Once you reach El Arco, you’ll be dropped off near shore at Playa del
Amor (Lover’s Beach), on the Sea of Cortez side. Before you’re leave the boat,
agree on a pick-up time for your return trip. There’s little shade here – and
only a handful of vendors – so bring plenty of drinking water, snacks, and
sunscreen. Kayaks and jet skis are available for rent. If waters are calm, you
can rent snorkeling gear to look for octopus and colorful parrotfish. Walk
along the sand to the Pacific side, but stay clear of the massive crashing
waves. There are no lifeguards here, so you’re on your own. Check out the
fascinating rock formations on the beach, many of which have an
extra-terrestrial feel to them. This beach can get a bit crowded, especially on
weekends and holidays when locals come for some down time and sunbathing.
After a few hours at Playa del Amor, consider a few more at the rowdier
nearby Playa Medano. This 3-km sandy stretch of beach is always crowded, even
more so when cruise ships are in town. Restaurants, bars, and several hotels
line the beach: this is the spot to see and be seen. Popular beachfront
eateries include the Mango Deck, shown above, as well as the Office and
Billygan’s Island. Sunbathers can rent umbrellas and lounge chairs. The water
here is calm enough for young children and swimming areas are roped off to
prevent accidents with kayakers, jet skiers, and parasailers. Get here early to
avoid the inevitable mid-day crowds and you may even spot grey humpbacks
offshore.
The uncontested Marlin Capital of the World, Cabo San Lucas boasts more
than 850 species of fish in its waters. Anglers come here from around the globe
in search of huge striped marlin (a 565-pound blue marlin won over $1.1 million
in 2003’s Bisbee Black & Blue Jackpot Marlin Tournament). Others come in
search of more palatable tuna, wahoo, and mahi-mahi. Fishing charters can be
arranged through your hotel or the many sportfishing companies found along the
Los Cabos Harbour. Prices start at about $350 for a 5-hour excursion on a 2-3
person 28-foot cruiser, and go up from there. The larger boats offer air
conditioning, full bathrooms, and kitchens. Those with a budget can rent a
panga (small motorized skiff) with a skipper for as little as $200 for a
half-day affair. If you net a catch – it’s rare that a fishing boat returns
empty-handed – you can have it filleted at the docks, and even prepared to your
liking at one of the area restaurants.
Between January and March each year, Los Cabos becomes home to pods of
migrating gray and humpback whales trying to escape the frigid waters of the
Bering Straits and give birth to their young. While you can spot these playful
creatures frolicking offshore – as we did many times from our hotel restaurant
– there is nothing as exhilarating as seeing them up close and personal. Many
whale watching options abound, from 100-foot-long power catamarans to large
booze cruises. We opted for a small inflatable Zodiac boat capable of holding
up to 14 passengers. Unlike most of the other whale watching excursions we’ve
done in other countries, this time we were blessed with several close
whale sightings – close enough to get full frame shots of them breaching the
water’s surface and flapping their tails in the air. This was truly an experience of a lifetime.