The Real Romania
by Dr Howe Sim
‘Why Romania?’ was the
typical response we elicited when friends learned of our next European
destination. For most outsiders, this former Communist stronghold conjures up
little more than images of depressing Ceausescu-era housing blocks, orphanages
crammed with unwanted children, and a bloodsucking un-dead vampire named
Dracula who called Transylvania home. We would soon realize that the reality is
a far cry from the stereotypes and misconceptions held by those unfamiliar with
this hidden gem.
A land of unspoiled,
timeless beauty, Romania is a treasure trove of distinctly unique regions, from
the rugged alpine peaks of the Carpathian Mountains to the fertile wetlands of
the Danube Delta, plus everything in between. Equally photogenic are its
man-made structures: its spectacular painted monasteries, its grand medieval
castles, even the hand-made wooden homes with elaborate carved gates that dot
the countryside.
Perhaps the most enticing
thing about Romania is its people. Despite years of hardship under Communist
rule, they remain open, friendly, and generous to visitors. Share a few rounds
of 100-proof tuica (plum brandy), and you’re treated like the closest of
friends. Compliment your hostess on her mouth-watering sarmale (cabbage
leaf-wrapped pork and beef), mamaliga (cornmeal palenta), and papanasi
(cream-drenched warm doughnut) – which she spent hours preparing from scratch –
and you’ll never want for your next meal.
Our journey into the
world of Romania’s unique culture, where ancient traditions and practices
endure, will always have a special place in our hearts and memories. For this
reason, we thank our dear friends Ina and Dan, without whom our Romanian
adventure would not have been possible.
MARAMURES
Thanks to its remote
location on the northwestern edge of Romania, the region of Maramures has been
insulated, in large part, from the effects of modernization. Here, little has
changed in the past century. People still live off the land: scything, drying
and stacking their fanul (hay) in the summer months. Horse-drawn carts are the
norm, as are giant ornately carved wooden gates fronting villagers’ homes.
Europe’s last peasant culture is alive and well here, as evidenced by the
area’s traditional music, folk customs, dress, and festivals.
NORTHERN DOBROGEA
Sandwiched between the
fertile Danube and the Black Sea, Dobrogea is Romania’s only maritime
environment. Sun worshippers flock to coastal resorts on the Black Sea, and
bird-watching enthusiasts and those in search of solitude head to the Danube
Delta, the world’s third largest wetland. Despite harbours teeming with
ferryboats, shipyards, and oil terminals, the area’s vulnerable ecosystem still
manages to attract millions of migrating birds annually. As you take in the
sights nad sounds of this unique region of the country, make a point of
sampling the delicious local fish specialties. Those who indulge in urban
infiltration will also delight in the abandoned factories in the region’s
interior.
TRANSYLVANIA
Formerly under the
auspices of the Hungarian empire, this popular region features many of the
country’s most interesting buildings: citadel churches, medieval castles, and
manor houses – located in equally colorful and engaging towns. Most of these
charming Saxon-influenced towns, with their exterior fortified walls, cobbled
alleyways, and baroque facades, serve as a great base for exploring nearby
villages and mountain ranges. Equally deserving of your time in Transylvania is
its still largely pristine countryside, especially the enormously popular
Apuseni Mountains, with its caves, subterranean rivers, and forested trails.
SOUTHERN BUCOVINA
Rivaling Maramures as a
bucolic paradise, Southern Bucovina is best known for its 22 world famous
painted monasteries. Dedicated to individual patron saints, each monastery is
wrapped – often inside and out – in exquisite frescoes depicting biblical
stories. As you admire the intense colors and intricate detail adorning the
monastery walls, imagine yourself as a soldier in the 1600s, preparing to do
battle with Turkish invaders, while learning of the Bible through these
elaborate frescoes.
