Canada’s Real Wild West
by Dr Howe Sim,
published in Guiding Stars
It was our third trip to
the area, yet it felt like our first time.
As our ferry, the Queen of New Westminster, docked at the Duke Point
terminal in Nanaimo and began letting vehicles off, we felt a refreshing sense
of excitement and anticipation about the week that lay ahead. At a time when so much of the country was
undergoing a rapid and extensive urbanization, Vancouver Island was still
relatively impervious to such trends.
Here you can still discover some of the most pristine and untouched
wilderness in the province. Our destination was the island’s rugged yet
incredibly popular west coast. It was a
mere three hour drive from Nanaimo, though inclement weather conditions and
heavy traffic can slow things down considerably.
An hour into our drive, we came
across the world famous Cathedral Grove. Part of the 157 hectare MacMillan
Provincial Park, this 800 year-old grove is home to ancient giant Douglas fir
that are up to 9 metres in circumference.
An extensive network of loop trails (some wheelchair accessible) runs on
both sides of the highway, with ancient Western cedar on the northern side
overlooking nearby Cameron Lake.
Interpretive signs on the trails describe how the forest canopy has
recovered from a vicious windstorm in 1997 that toppled hundreds of its trees.
Take an hour or so to wander under the shadows of these giant timbers, untouched
by the modern world.
Shortly after leaving behind the
old-growth forest, it began to rain heavily. At times we had to pull over onto
the shoulder as visibility approached zero. Not that unusual for Vancouver
Island, especially the Pacific Ocean-exposed west coast, which averages 3.5
metres of rainfall annually. We eventually arrived at Tofino’s world-renowned
Wickanninish Inn (tel: 1-800-333-4604; www.wickinn.com). We had planned to stay
at a different resort on this trip but were lured back by the Wick’s charm and
rustic elegance. The adjoining Chesterman Beach, with its thundering waves and
often howling winds, is another reason visitors are drawn to this enchanting
Relais & Châteaux property. After a sumptuous but pricey dinner at the
Inn’s Pointe Restaurant, we settled in for the night, eager to get an early
start on the next day’s activities.
Chesterman Beach is known for its crashing waves and howling winds
The highlight of our trip was the
Pacific Rim National Park (www.pc.gc.ca/pacificrim). Spanning a total 130
kilometres of shoreline, the park actually consists of three sections: the
northernmost Long Beach Unit, the Broken Group Islands, and the southernmost
West Coast Trail unit. Most visitors to
the park confine themselves to the Long Beach Unit, famous for its 20 kilometres
of sweeping beaches and nine hiking trails (some with boardwalk surfaces). Our
favorite walks were the lush old growth Rainforest Trail and the wide secluded
cove at the end of the Schooner Beach Trail. Located between the fishing
villages of Tofino on its northern tip and Ucluelet on its southern, this unit
is open year round, and also features the interpretive Wickaninnish Centre
(tel: 250-726-4212).
The Long Beach Unit of the Pacific Rim National Park consists of 20
kilometres of wide and often empty beaches
One of our favorite walks was through the old growth Rainforest Trail
The Broken Group Islands consists
of over one hundred small rocky islands in Barkley Sound, hence is reachable
only by boat. Waters here are studded with dangerous reefs, and dense fog is
common, so a visit here should only be undertaken with an experienced boater.
Sightseers and kayakers who visit the Broken Islands will be rewarded with
views of this untouched archipelago with its abundant marine life, tide pools,
and deserted beaches.
Schooner Beach Trail leads to a beautiful secluded cove popular with
beachcombers and hikers
The West Coast Trail is to hikers
as the Broken Group Islands is to boaters. Only experienced backpackers need
consider this venture, reputed to be one of the most grueling treks in the
western hemisphere. Originally cleared to help in the rescue of shipwrecked
sailors, this 77 kilometre-long trail usually takes a minimum of 5-7 days to
complete. The West Coast Trail is open from May to the end of September, and typically
attracts some 8,000 daredevils annually. Reservations can be made by calling
1-800-435-5622; a maximum of 52 permits are issued per day.
For similar views, consider the
neighboring 47 kilometre-long Juan de Fuca Marine Trail. This can be completed
in a less strenuous 4-day trek, and does not require advanced
reservations. Campsites can be found at
regular intervals along the trail.
Those who yearn for more of
Vancouver Island’s unmatched scenic hikes should consider Tofino’s Tonquin
Beach and Ucluelet’s Wild Pacific Trail. Tucked away in a private cove on the
northern side of Tofino, Tonquin Beach is nestled in a little bay surrounded by
towering rock cliffs. In the summer months, low tides here make for a nice
relaxing escape from the more crowded Pacific Rim Park beaches. The Wild
Pacific Trail, a popular wilderness trail system that skirts the rugged cliffs
of the west coast of Vancouver Island, also offers breathtaking shoreline
panoramas, especially at sunrise and sunset. Seals, sea lions, otters, and even
gray whales can be spotted in the nearby surf, so bring a pair of binoculars on
your hike.
Visitors hoping to avoid large crowds often head to Tofino’s more
secluded Tonquin Beach
Visitors intent on getting up close
and personal with whales and bears will find many tour companies in both Tofino
and Ucluelet happy to accommodate. Those interested in side trips from Tofino
have additional options such as a seaplane or boat ride to Hot Springs Cove
(Vancouver Island’s only all-natural sulfur-scented thermal hot springs), a
water taxi ride to nearby rugged Meares Island or Flores Island, or a flight to
the untouched wilderness of the Clayoquot Sound Biosphere Reserve (the
continent’s largest old-growth temperate rain forest). A week on the west coast
of Vancouver Island is sure to satisfy even the most die hard and passionate
eco-adventurer seeking a return to more primitive surroundings.