Heart and Stone:
Nova Scotia’s picturesque
island guards its Acadian and Scottish roots
by Dr Howe Sim
published in Doctor’s Review,
Sep 2006
Located
off the northeastern tip of mainland Nova Scotia, Cape Breton Island is perhaps
best known for the spectacular Cabot Trail, a 300 km long roadway which
encompasses the rugged Highlands National Park. But beautiful drives are only
part of the island’s appeal. Another
reason to visit is the island’s rich history and proud heritage which is still
reflected in its towns, its warm people and their customs and traditions.
Present-day
Cape Breton is still considered a window into the area’s past. In a recent
study by National Geographic Traveler magazine, Cape Breton Island tied for
second place out of 115 travel destinations worldwide for the preservation of
its cultural and environmental identity.
The survey rated popular tourist spots for their ability to resist the modern-day
pressures of mass tourism, commercialization, and over-development. According to the magazine’s experts in
sustainable tourism, only the Norwegian Fjords did a better job in preserving a
sense of place.
COLONIAL
FORTITUDE
Originally home to the Mi’kmaq Indians,
Cape Breton was settled by the French in the early 1700s. In an attempt to
strengthen their claim in the New World and keep the British at bay, they built
a fortress at Louisbourg. For a while,
it was one of the busiest ports in North America and a key economic and
military centre for the French. Unfortunately, when British forces captured the
settlement in 1758, it was demolished.
A team of archeologists and engineers rebuilt the fortress of
Louisbourg, destroyed in 1758
A team of historians,
archaeologists, and engineers rebuilt much of the town and fortifications,
using original pieces where possible.
The result is the impressive Fortress
of Louisbourg (tel: 902-224-2306; www.pc.gc.ca/louisbourg),
North America’s largest historic restoration project. The site recreates life
as it was in 1744, and features some 50 buildings (including the massive King’s
Bastion Barracks and three period restaurants), as well as costumed
interpreters taking on the roles of the town’s residents, telling stories about
this colorful yet turbulent period in Cape Breton history.
Because
it’s on the exposed tip of the island, 40 kilometres east of Sydney (the
island’s main port city), it can get quite windy, even in the middle of summer,
so it’s best to bring a sweater or light jacket. To get the most out of the
experience, take one of the free guided tours.
The Mi’kmaq Interpretive Trail offers a glimpse into the history and
culture of this interesting people.
There are also picnic facilities, walking trails, and two beaches.
FRENCH
MADE
The
current stronghold of French Acadian culture on the island lies in Chéticamp, a
picturesque village near the western entrance to Cape Breton Highlands National
Park. This predominantly
French-speaking community was originally settled by immigrants from central
& western France, and possesses a culture and ambience quite different from
that of the rest of the island.
Chéticamp (www.cheticampns.com) is perhaps best known
outside the province for its traditional hooked rugs, a craft perfected by
early settlers and carried on by their descendants. One of its most famous local artisans, the recently deceased Dr
Elizabeth LeFort, has some of her masterpieces on permanent display at the
LeFort Gallery in the colourful culture centre known as Les Trois Pignons (tel:
902-224-2642; www.lestroispignons.com). Her tapestries
have been presented to such prominent heads of state as John Diefenbaker, Queen
Elizabeth II, and Pope John XXIII.
Attached
to the LeFort Gallery is the Musée Marguerite Gallant which features a
collection of antique furniture and artifacts, some of which date back to the
mid-18th century and belonged to Chéticamp’s earliest settlers. A
visit to this beautifully designed museum will give you a glimpse into the
hardiness and tenacity of its original residents.
Locally
made hookings are available at a number of boutiques along Main Street, and a
particularly large selection can be found at the Co-opérative Artisanale (tel:
902-224-2170; www.co-opartisanale.com). While you are
there, visit the Restaurant Acadien just next door, which offers local Acadian
specialties such as fish cakes, fricot
(a chicken-potato soup), and blood pudding. The Co-opérative Artisanale also
runs the Acadian Museum (tel: 902-224-2170) which showcases local
antiques and offers demonstrations of wool carding, spinning and weaving.
Chéticamp
is a popular stop for visitors interested in whale- and seal-watching, as well
as deep-sea fishing expeditions, and several tour operators are based there.
The Musée Marguerite Gallant recalls Cheticamp’s earliest French
settlers
CAUGHT
IN A GAEL
At
the time of the final fall of Louisbourg, immigrants from the Scottish
Highlands began settling on the island. By the mid-1800’s, more than 30,000
Scots had arrived, making Gaelic the third most commonly spoken language in
Canada at the time. By the 1930’s, however, due in large part to the growing
influence of English-dominated media and modern communication, Gaelic was in
danger of dying out.
The
provincial government began to recognize the importance of Scottish culture for
tourism, and encouraged Gaelic instruction in public schools. In 1938, it founded the Gaelic College of Celtic Arts and Crafts
(tel: 902-295-3411; www.gaeliccollege.edu),
which was devoted to the study of Celtic arts and culture, and particularly the
mother tongue.
Since
then, this unique institution (the only one of its kind in North America) has
expanded and now attracts thousands of students from around the world. In
addition to language instruction, it offers programs in Scottish history,
Highland dance, spinning and weaving, and traditional instruments such as the
fiddle, bagpipe, harp, and traditional drum.
Its
beautiful campus overlooks St Ann’s Harbour, in the heart of the earliest
Scottish settlement in Cape Breton. It
is also home to a crafts shop featuring a selection of Celtic gifts (including
tartans), as well as the Great Hall of Clans, where you can trace the history
of the Scots from ancient times to their migration to the island.
The Gaelic College of Celtic Arts and Crafts is the only school of
its kind in North America
CELTIC
COLORS
The
descendants of those first Highlanders now dominate Cape Breton’s arts and
culture scene, especially in smaller rural communities, many of which are named
after hometowns from the old country.
Nowhere is this more evident than in the tremendous popularity of
Scottish-style folk music, which can often be heard emanating from community
centres or impromptu jam sessions (also called ceilidhs) held in residents’ homes.
Each
October, as autumn colors are coming to a spectacular peak, the love of music
and culture is celebrated island-wide at the Celtic Colours International Festival (tel: 888-355-7744; www.celtic-colours.com).
This week-long event, held this year from October 6 to 14, features concerts by
locals as well as international singers and musicians from as far away as
Germany and Denmark. There is also an extensive lineup of lectures, workshops,
cultural tours and art exhibitions, all promoting the Celtic arts. Events are held in communities around the
island and even at the Fortress of Louisbourg.
Because
there may be up to seven concerts held on any given day, it’s not always
possible to attend everything you are interested in, whether it’s bag-piping,
fiddling, or Gaelic singing. However
you may still be able to catch an informal performance at the Festival Club
(held nightly at the Gaelic College), which starts as the evening concerts are
wrapping up, and often runs into the wee hours of the morning.
This
is truly a world class event, and has been garnering increasing attention from
the international community. Tickets for each event are booked separately and
the more popular concerts sell out quickly.
Each year, when the trees turn, the Celtic Colors International
Festival brings singers and musicians to the island
MINING
FOR HISTORY
To
fully appreciate the history of the area, it’s important to understand the role
that coal mining played in the development of the region since the 1700s. In fact, mining the abundant coal seams was
key to the construction of the Louisbourg fortress.
For
many years, Cape Breton’s coal mining industry accounted for 40 percent of
Canada’s total output, much of which helped power the major industries in
Ontario and Quebec. The mines were also a main reason for the large influx of
immigrants in the late 1800s, and are therefore largely responsible for the
current cultural makeup of the Island.
So no trip to Cape Breton would be complete without a visit to the Miners’
Museum (tel: 902-849-4522; www.minersmuseum.com)
in Glace Bay, which used to be the island’s main coal mining centre, until the 1980s
when its last mine closed.
This
wonderful museum is a must-see. Its
artifacts and exhibits detail the history of coal mining and the technology
behind it, from its crude beginnings to the present day. Retired coal miners
take you on a guided tour of the Ocean Deeps Colliery, an actual coal seam
located beneath the museum. This is truly one of the highlights of the visit,
as guides recount personal tales of hardship.
If your travel itinerary is flexible, try to schedule your visit on a
day when the Men of the Deeps choir – composed entirely of retired coal miners
– is performing.
Visitors to Glace Bay’s Miners Museum hear first hand accounts
from retired workers
This
is by no means an exhaustive list of attractions on Cape Breton Island. However,
it does offer a glimpse into the island’s rich heritage and colorful
background, and perhaps provide some insight into why it has been rated the
“most scenic island in the world” by Condé Nast Traveler magazine.
The
best periods to visit Cape Breton are the summer and early fall, as many
attractions, hotels, and businesses close down as soon as the Celtic Colours
International Festival comes to an end in mid-October.
Visitors
generally fly into the Halifax International Airport, rent a vehicle, then
drive three hours to the Canso Causeway, which connects the island to the
mainland. Those who prefer to fly can
take a connecting flight from Halifax to the Sydney Airport (located on the
eastern side of the island), though a rental car is still strongly recommended
for touring.
For
more information on Cape Breton,
including its numerous accommodations, restaurants, and attractions, check out
its official website at www.cbisland.com.