‘My Own Private Mexico’
An MD and his wife explore a jungle-fringed fishing village near Puerto Vallarta
by Dr Howe Sim
published in Doctor’s Review, Apr 2006


   As our water taxi pulled into the Yelapa Cove, our eyes were drawn to the golden sand of the beach nestled against the lush rainforest. My wife Darlene and I immediately sensed the simple and refreshing appeal of this quaint hideaway, which first attracted celebrities the likes of Elizabeth Taylor, Bob Dylan and Jack Nicholson in the 1960s.

Yelapa is a small fishing village with a population of about 1,500 residents, including some Canadian expatriates drawn to its laid-back lifestyle. Located on the southern shore of  the Bay of Banderas, 25 kilometres southwest of Puerto Vallarta, it is one of the few remaining places in the world where land is owned collectively by the community, rather than by individuals or developers.

While there is a small dirt road to Yelapa that can be negotiated in a four-wheel drive during the dry season, it is most easily accessible by boat, from locations in and around Puerto Vallarta. Like most visitors, we reached Yelapa using one of the water taxis available at Los Muertos Pier in downtown Puerto Vallarta. The trip by boat takes approximately 45 minutes.  Water taxis cost  200 pesos (roughly US$20) per person round-trip and leave the pier at about 10:30-11:00 AM and return by 4:00-4:30 PM.



The Vortex café offers international cuisine and internet access

However, before deciding to make the trip out to Yelapa, check the weather forecast: if it's overcast or raining, it's best ot postpone the visit to another day, as the ride out can be a bit rough
if the waters are choppy. 

You should arrive early at the pier to ensure you get a spot, especially on Sundays when fewer taxis are running. While your taxi is en route, keep an eye out for wildlife. We saw dolphins skirting the waves alongside the boat, as well as whales breaching the water’s surface.

Once in Yelapa, water taxis offload passengers either near the shore (your feet will get wet) or at a dock on either end of the beach.  Some visitors will stay on the beach for the remainder of the day, while others will head up towards the village and waterfall. For those who choose to remain beachfront, the relatively calm waters (compared to those in Puerto Vallarta) make for good swimming and snorkeling.  Parasailing off the hillside, horseback riding, scuba diving, and kayaking are also available for those interested.

PIE ON THE PLAYA

The less ambitious, who simply prefer to soak up some rays, can grab a chair at one of the numerous beachfront restaurants, for a meal and cold drink. The seafood here is terrific, especially the fresh-caught red snapper and mahi-mahi. Whatever you choose to have for lunch, do leave room for one (or more) slices of freshly baked pie, sold on the beach by Yelapa’s famous pie ladies.

I’ve had the fortune of sampling their lemon meringue, banana nut and chocolate, and must say that these are some of the best I’ve ever tasted, especially when washed down with a Corona.  The more adventurous can also sample the locally distilled moonshine called raicilla, which is made from the roots of the maguey plant


The 45-metre-high waterfall near the village can be reached by foot or on horseback

and allegedly has higher alcohol content than most commercially produced liquors.

Those who choose to wander through the village to the 45-metre-high waterfall can do so either on foot, by mule or on horseback. As soon as you start making your way through the village, you’ll feel like you’ve taken a step back in time. The footpaths are made of dirt, cobble and in some cases cement to help prevent degradation during the rainy season.  While bicycles are being increasingly used by locals, the village remains devoid of cars and motorcycles.



The spiny tailed iguana is usually found in city ruins, stone walls and on the edge of forests
 
 
Modern conveniences such as electricity and phones only become widely available a few years ago, as did internet access at a couple of village cafés. There is no water delivery system in the village, just pipes for carrying water from the nearby El Tuito River. Consequently water is not always available to locals, particularly
during the dry season.
As we hiked through the village, we passed homes, rental units and shops, as well as a church, school and new youth center. Most homes are made of brick and cement, though a few are still open-air palapas, with thatched roofs made of dried palm leaves
on four posts.

Near the waterfall we came across a handful of souvenir stalls, as well as a shop offering handicrafts made from locally grown rosewood. There is also a gallery in town which sells Huichol art.

If you plan to make the detour out to Yelapa from Puerto Vallarta, remember to bring enough cash
(in US dollars or pesos), as there are no ATMs in
the village and most businesses do not accept
credit cards.

If you get lost on your way to the waterfall or back to the beach (there are no signs anywhere), don’t hesitate to ask the local townspeople, whom we found very warm and hospitable. Just ask for la playa when looking for the beach and la cascada when heading up towards the waterfall. When you reach the waterfall, enjoy a dip in the crystal-clear pool, as well as a cold drink at the nearby café.

PALAPA OR POOLSIDE

For those who find that a day trip is not enough time to take it all in, there are numerous accommodations available for rent, by the day, week or month.  During the busy dry season, you need to make reservations ahead of time.  Some of the small rental units are located beachfront, others are in the hills above the village. Many are original palapa style, with some offering hot water, electricity and a kitchenette.  If you plan to stay overnight at one of these units, bring a flashlight (for negotiating the footpaths) and any medicines and toiletries you may need, as these may not be available at the town’s store.

Two hotels bear special mention for those who like to be pampered.  The first is the Hotel Lagunita
(tel: 011-52-322-209-5056; www.hotel-lagunita.com), which has a coveted location right on the beach, and features 30 bungalows with private bathrooms, a restaurant bar, massage hut and a beautiful saltwater pool built on natural rocks overlooking the water.  This rustic yet romantic hotel offers a panoramic view of the bay, simple but clean rooms, and friendly and attentive staff.




Hotel Lagunita's salt water pool overlooks the beach

The other hotel, which is a much more recent addition, is the secluded and chic retreat Verana (tel: 800-530-7176; www.verana.com), perched on a hillside with jaw-dropping views of the bay.  It offers eight individually designed multi-room guest houses, each with its own spacious terrace and mosquito-netted beds. Amenities include a full bar and restaurants offering Mexican-inspired cuisine (meals are included in the price), a spring-fed infinity pool, a library, a jungle spa complete with a Watsu pool, and a yoga hut.  




Verana has eight individually designed guest houses on a hillside with jaw-dropping views
 
For those who decide to stay in Yelapa for more than a day, there are plenty of activities to keep them entertained.  We followed one of the sandy paths along the El Tuito River that took us into the jungle, past numerous waterfalls and swimming holes. Within the lush growth we encountered a wide range of tropical vegetation and abundant wildlife including iguanas, giant macaws and many other species of tropical birds. Visitors can also charter a private boat for a deep-sea fishing expedition, a visit to a nearby secluded beach, or a day trip to the Marietas Islands which are populated with dolphins, turtles and schools of tropical fish.

Yelapa has also attracted many artists, writers, and therapists who now offer workshops and retreats ranging from massage and pottery to meditation and yoga. These can be booked on their own, or can be arranged as part of an all-inclusive package.  Spanish lessons are also available, both on an individual basis and in classes for children or adults. Home stays with host families are offered for those who want to be totally
immersed in Spanish.

Finally, if, like me, you happen to be a dog lover, you’ll be pleased to learn that Yelapa has its fair share of semi-strays. On our previous visit, we were greeted on the beach by one of the resident pups who then guided us up the village to the waterfall (don’t worry if you’re not into dogs, they’ll soon realize that and move on to the next group of tourists). Later that day after we returned to the beach, we aptly rewarded him with some lemon meringue, which he gladly devoured.

Yelapa is a holistic and relatively unspoiled destination for those who wish to get away from it all and just enjoy all that nature has to offer, without the encumberances of modern life such as televisions and cell phones. For more information on this unique side trip check out the tourist office of Yelapa (www.yelapa.info) or the Mexican Tourism Board (www.visitmexicopress.com). Whatever period of time you decide to spend in Yelapa, I suggest you plan your visit for the not-too-distant future, before this paradise becomes more
commercialized and loses its charm.

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