‘My Own
Private Mexico’
An MD and his wife
explore a jungle-fringed fishing village near
by Dr Howe Sim
published in Doctor’s Review, Apr 2006
As our water taxi pulled into the Yelapa Cove,
our eyes were drawn to the golden sand of the beach nestled against the lush
rainforest. My wife Darlene and I immediately sensed the simple and refreshing
appeal of this quaint hideaway, which first attracted celebrities the likes of
Elizabeth Taylor, Bob Dylan and Jack Nicholson in the 1960s.
Yelapa is a small fishing village with a
population of about 1,500 residents, including some Canadian expatriates drawn
to its laid-back lifestyle. Located on the southern shore of the
The Vortex café offers international cuisine and
Internet access
While there is a small dirt road to Yelapa
that can be negotiated in a four-wheel drive during the dry season, it is most
easily accessible by boat, from locations in and around
You should arrive early at the pier to
ensure you get a spot, especially on Sundays when fewer taxis are running. While your taxi is en route, keep an eye out
for wildlife. We saw dolphins skirting
the waves alongside the boat, as well as whales breaching the water’s surface.
Once in Yelapa, water taxis offload
passengers either near the shore (your feet will get wet) or at a dock on
either end of the beach. Some visitors
will stay on the beach for the remainder of the day, while others will head up
towards the village and waterfall. For those who choose to remain beachfront,
the relatively calm waters (compared to those in
PIE ON THE PLAYA
The less ambitious, who simply prefer to
soak up some rays, can grab a chair at one of the numerous beachfront
restaurants, for a meal and cold drink. The seafood here is terrific, especially
the fresh-caught red snapper and mahi-mahi. Whatever you choose to have for
lunch, do leave room for one (or more) slices of freshly baked pie, sold on the
beach by Yelapa’s famous pie ladies.
I’ve had the fortune of sampling their lemon meringue, banana nut and
chocolate, and must say that these are some of the best I’ve ever tasted,
especially when washed down with a
Those who choose to wander through the
village to the 45-metre-high waterfall can do so either on foot, by mule or on horseback.
As soon as you start making your way through the village, you’ll feel like
you’ve taken a step back in time. The footpaths are made of dirt, cobble and in
some cases cement to help prevent degradation during the rainy season. While bicycles are being increasingly used
by locals, the village remains devoid of cars and motorcycles.
As we hiked through the village, we passed
homes, rental units and shops, as well as a church, school and new youth
center. Most homes are made of brick and cement, though a few are still
open-air palapas, with thatched roofs made of dried palm leaves on four posts.
Near the waterfall we came across a handful of souvenir stalls, as well as a
shop offering handicrafts made from locally grown rosewood. There is also a gallery
in town which sells Huichol art. If you plan to make the detour out to Yelapa
from
If you get lost on your way to the
waterfall or back to the beach (there are no signs anywhere), don’t hesitate to
ask the local townspeople, whom we found very warm and hospitable. Just ask for
la playa when looking for the beach
and la cascada when heading up
towards the waterfall. When you reach the waterfall, enjoy a dip in the
crystal-clear pool, as well as a cold drink at the nearby café.
The 45-metre-high waterfall near the village can be reached by foot or
on horseback
Modern conveniences such as electricity
and phones only become widely available a few years ago, as did internet access
at a couple of village cafés. There is no water delivery system in the village,
just pipes for carrying water from the nearby El Tuito River. Consequently
water is not always available to locals, particularly during the dry
season.
PALAPA OR POOLSIDE
For those who find that a day trip is not
enough time to take it all in, there are numerous accommodations available for
rent, by the day, week or month. During
the busy dry season, you need to make reservations ahead of time. Some of the small rental units are located
beachfront, others are in the hills above the village. Many are original palapa
style, with some offering hot water, electricity and a kitchenette. If you plan to stay overnight at one of
these units, bring a flashlight (for negotiating the footpaths) and any
medicines and toiletries you may need, as these may not be available at the
town’s store.
Two hotels bear special mention for those
who like to be pampered. The first is
the Hotel Lagunita (tel:
011-52-322-209-5056; www.hotel-lagunita.com), which has a coveted
location right on the beach, and features 30 bungalows with private bathrooms,
a restaurant bar, massage hut and a beautiful saltwater pool built on natural
rocks overlooking the water. This
rustic yet romantic hotel offers a panoramic view of the bay, simple but clean
rooms, and friendly and attentive staff.
The other hotel, which is a much more
recent addition, is the secluded and chic retreat Verana (tel: 800-530-7176; www.verana.com), perched
on a hillside with jaw-dropping views of the bay. It offers eight individually designed multi-room guest houses,
each with its own spacious terrace and mosquito-netted beds. Amenities include
a full bar and restaurants offering Mexican-inspired cuisine (meals are
included in the price), a spring-fed infinity pool, a library, a jungle spa
complete with a Watsu pool, and a yoga hut.
Verana has eight individually designed guest houses on
a hillside with jaw-dropping views
For those who decide to stay in Yelapa for
more than a day, there are plenty of activities to keep them entertained. We followed one of the sandy paths along the
El Tuito River that took us into the jungle, past numerous waterfalls and
swimming holes. Within the lush growth we encountered a wide range of tropical
vegetation and abundant wildlife including iguanas, giant macaws and many other
species of tropical birds. Visitors can also charter a private boat for a
deep-sea fishing expedition, a visit to a nearby secluded beach, or a day trip
to the
The spiny tailed iguana is usually found in city
ruins, stone walls and on the edge of forests
Yelapa has also attracted many artists,
writers, and therapists who now offer workshops and retreats ranging from
massage and pottery to meditation and yoga. These can be booked on their own,
or can be arranged as part of an all-inclusive package. Spanish lessons are also available, both on
an individual basis and in classes for children or adults. Home stays with host
families are offered for those who want to be totally immersed in Spanish.
Finally, if, like me, you happen to be a
dog lover, you’ll be pleased to learn that Yelapa has its fair share of
semi-strays. On our previous visit, we were greeted on the beach by one of the
resident pups who then guided us up the village to the waterfall (don’t worry
if you’re not into dogs, they’ll soon realize that and move on to the next
group of tourists). Later that day after we returned to the beach, we aptly
rewarded him with some lemon meringue, which he gladly devoured.
Yelapa is a holistic and relatively
unspoiled destination for those who wish to get away from it all and just enjoy
all that nature has to offer, without the encumberances of modern life such as
televisions and cell phones. For more information on this unique side trip
check out the tourist office of Yelapa (www.yelapa.info)
or the Mexican Tourism Board (www.visitmexicopress.com).
Whatever period of time you decide to spend in Yelapa, I suggest you plan your
visit for the not-too-distant future, before this paradise becomes more
commercialized and loses its charm.