‘My Own
Private Mexico’
An MD and his wife
explore a jungle-fringed fishing village near
by Dr Howe Sim
published in Doctor’s Review, Apr 2006
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As our water taxi pulled into the Yelapa Cove, our eyes were
drawn to the golden sand of the beach nestled against the lush
rainforest. My wife Darlene and I immediately sensed the simple and
refreshing appeal of this quaint hideaway, which first attracted
celebrities the likes of Elizabeth Taylor, Bob Dylan and Jack Nicholson
in the 1960s. Yelapa is a small fishing village with a population of about 1,500 residents, including some Canadian expatriates drawn to its laid-back lifestyle. Located on the southern shore of the Bay of Banderas, 25 kilometres southwest of Puerto Vallarta, it is one of the few remaining places in the world where land is owned collectively by the community, rather than by individuals or developers. While there is a small dirt road to Yelapa that can be negotiated in a four-wheel drive during the dry season, it is most easily accessible by boat, from locations in and around Puerto Vallarta. Like most visitors, we reached Yelapa using one of the water taxis available at Los Muertos Pier in downtown Puerto Vallarta. The trip by boat takes approximately 45 minutes. Water taxis cost 200 pesos (roughly US$20) per person round-trip and leave the pier at about 10:30-11:00 AM and return by 4:00-4:30 PM. |
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The Vortex café offers international cuisine and internet access | |||||
| ![]() The 45-metre-high waterfall near the village can be reached by foot or on horseback and allegedly has higher alcohol content than most commercially produced liquors. Those who choose to wander through the village to the 45-metre-high waterfall can do so either on foot, by mule or on horseback. As soon as you start making your way through the village, you’ll feel like you’ve taken a step back in time. The footpaths are made of dirt, cobble and in some cases cement to help prevent degradation during the rainy season. While bicycles are being increasingly used by locals, the village remains devoid of cars and motorcycles. | ||||
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| As we hiked through the village, we passed homes,
rental units and shops, as well as a church, school and new youth
center. Most homes are made of brick and cement, though a few are still
open-air palapas, with thatched roofs made of dried palm leaves on four posts. Near the waterfall we came across a handful of souvenir stalls, as well as a shop offering handicrafts made from locally grown rosewood. There is also a gallery in town which sells Huichol art. If you plan to make the detour out to Yelapa from Puerto Vallarta, remember to bring enough cash (in US dollars or pesos), as there are no ATMs in the village and most businesses do not accept credit cards. If you get lost on your way to the waterfall or back to the beach (there are no signs anywhere), don’t hesitate to ask the local townspeople, whom we found very warm and hospitable. Just ask for la playa when looking for the beach and la cascada when heading up towards the waterfall. When you reach the waterfall, enjoy a dip in the crystal-clear pool, as well as a cold drink at the nearby café. | ||||
PALAPA OR POOLSIDE For those who find
that a day trip is not enough time to take it all in, there are
numerous accommodations available for rent, by the day, week or month.
During the busy dry season, you need to make reservations ahead of
time. Some of the small rental units are located beachfront, others
are in the hills above the village. Many are original palapa style,
with some offering hot water, electricity and a kitchenette. If you
plan to stay overnight at one of these units, bring a flashlight (for
negotiating the footpaths) and any medicines and toiletries you may
need, as these may not be available at the town’s store. Two
hotels bear special mention for those who like to be pampered. The
first is the Hotel Lagunita (tel: 011-52-322-209-5056; www.hotel-lagunita.com), which has a coveted location right on the beach, and features 30 bungalows with private bathrooms, a restaurant bar, massage hut and a beautiful saltwater pool built on natural rocks overlooking the water. This rustic yet romantic hotel offers a panoramic view of the bay, simple but clean rooms, and friendly and attentive staff. ![]()
Hotel Lagunita's salt water pool overlooks the beach
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The other hotel, which is a much more recent
addition, is the secluded and chic retreat Verana (tel: 800-530-7176;
www.verana.com), perched on a hillside with jaw-dropping views of the
bay. It offers eight individually designed multi-room guest houses,
each with its own spacious terrace and mosquito-netted beds. Amenities
include a full bar and restaurants offering Mexican-inspired cuisine
(meals are included in the price), a spring-fed infinity pool, a
library, a jungle spa complete with a Watsu pool, and a yoga hut.
![]() Verana has eight individually designed guest houses on a hillside with jaw-dropping views
For
those who decide to stay in Yelapa for more than a day, there are
plenty of activities to keep them entertained. We followed one of
the sandy paths along the El Tuito River that took us into the jungle,
past numerous waterfalls and swimming holes. Within the lush growth we
encountered a wide range of tropical vegetation and abundant wildlife
including iguanas, giant macaws and many other species of tropical
birds. Visitors can also charter a private boat for a deep-sea fishing
expedition, a visit to a nearby secluded beach, or a day trip to the
Marietas Islands which are populated with dolphins, turtles and schools
of tropical fish. Yelapa
has also attracted many artists, writers, and therapists who now offer
workshops and retreats ranging from massage and pottery to meditation
and yoga. These can be booked on their own, or can be arranged as part
of an all-inclusive package. Spanish lessons are also available,
both on an individual basis and in classes for children or adults. Home
stays with host families are offered for those who want to be totally immersed in Spanish. Finally, if, like me, you happen to be a dog lover, you’ll be pleased to learn that Yelapa has its fair share of semi-strays. On our previous visit, we were greeted on the beach by one of the resident pups who then guided us up the village to the waterfall (don’t worry if you’re not into dogs, they’ll soon realize that and move on to the next group of tourists). Later that day after we returned to the beach, we aptly rewarded him with some lemon meringue, which he gladly devoured. Yelapa is a holistic and relatively unspoiled destination for those who wish to get away from it all and just enjoy all that nature has to offer, without the encumberances of modern life such as televisions and cell phones. For more information on this unique side trip check out the tourist office of Yelapa (www.yelapa.info) or the Mexican Tourism Board (www.visitmexicopress.com). Whatever period of time you decide to spend in Yelapa, I suggest you plan your visit for the not-too-distant future, before this paradise becomes more commercialized and loses its charm. MAIN MENU > CREDITS | |||||